14K and 18K are the two most common golds used in engagement rings, and the question of which to choose comes up with almost every client. They can look similar in a photo, but they differ in colour, in price, and in how they hold up over time. The right choice usually comes down to your day to day activities and how the ring is actually going to be worn.
What the Numbers Mean
Pure gold is 24 karat. On its own it's too soft to hold a stone or stand up to daily wear, so it's mixed with other metals to give it strength. The karat number tells you how much of that mix is gold, measured out of 24 parts.
- 14K is 14 parts gold out of 24, or about 58% gold.
- 18K is 18 parts gold out of 24, or 75% gold.
The rest is alloy, usually some combination of copper, silver, zinc, and sometimes palladium or nickel. The alloy is what changes the colour and the hardness, and it's where the differences between the two metals come from.
It's also why 18K costs more than 14K. There's simply more gold in it. How much more depends on the weight of the piece and the gold price at the time, so the difference is more noticeable on a heavier band than on a fine one.
Colour
The difference in colour depends on which gold you're looking at, and it isn't the same across all of them.
Champagne Gold
Champagne gold is a warm-toned gold that sits between traditional yellow and rose. It has the richness of yellow gold but a softer, more muted tone, without the pink of rose gold. The karat changes it the same way it changes the others: 18K comes out warmer and deeper, while 14K reads a little lighter.
Yellow Gold
18K has more gold in it, so it reads warmer and deeper. Next to it, 14K looks slightly lighter and a little cooler.
Rose Gold
Rose gold gets its colour from copper. Because 14K has more alloy in the mix, 14K rose usually comes out pinker and more obvious, while 18K rose is softer and more subtle.
White Gold
Both are usually rhodium plated, which is what gives white gold its bright finish, so out of the box they look much the same. The difference shows up over time, as the plating wears and the metal underneath starts to come through.
Durability
Gold is a soft metal, so the more gold there is in the mix, the softer the finished piece. That means 18K picks up scratches and small dents more easily than 14K does.
It shows most on the parts of a ring that get the most contact: the bottom of the band, the outer edges of the prongs, and anywhere that catches on things.
This is where your day to day comes in. If you're hands on at work or around the house, 14K will hold its finish longer. If your ring has an easier life, 18K is a comfortable choice.
Skin Sensitivity
People who react to gold jewellery are usually reacting to nickel or another alloy in the mix rather than to the gold itself. Because 18K has less alloy in it overall, it tends to be the safer choice for sensitive skin.
A Few Things to Consider
- You work with your hands. 14K will hold its finish longer.
- You want the deepest yellow. 18K, every time.
When You Work With Us
We'll talk through this before anything gets made. If you're not sure, we can show you both in person, which is far more useful than looking at photos on a screen where lighting and white balance change everything.
And if you're matching a ring to something you already own, bring it in. Matching to an existing piece is usually the thing that settles the question.
More of Our Work
Not sure which to choose?
Tell us how you wear your jewellery and what look you're after, and we'll help you decide.
Want to see more of our work? Browse the engagement collection, or follow the process on Instagram.